If you have searched for used RV pricing you have probably found three different numbers from three different sources. Here is what each one means and which one you should actually use when making an offer.
The Three Prices You Will Find
NADA Guide value. NADA gives you a low retail, average retail, and high retail range based on year, make, model, and general condition. Use NADA as your starting baseline, not your final number.
Dealer asking price. Dealers typically price 15 to 25 percent above what they paid for the unit. Their asking price includes reconditioning costs, overhead, and profit margin. It is the price you negotiate down from, not the price you pay.
Private seller asking price. Private sellers often price based on what they paid or what they saw a similar unit listed for. Listing price tells you nothing about actual value.
What You Should Actually Pay
The real price is determined by what comparable units are currently selling for in your area. Search completed listings on RV Trader, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist. Look at units that are no longer available — those sold. The price range across 10 to 15 sold units in similar condition is your true market value.
Factors That Adjust the Price
Low hours and documented service history add value. Slideouts in excellent working condition add value. Recent roof resealing or new tires add value.
Water damage history, delamination, high mileage, or missing service records reduce value significantly. Older tires regardless of tread reduce value. Non-working appliances should be negotiated as repair costs.
The Fastest Way to Know What to Pay
SmartBuyers Deals pulls live market data on the specific listing you are looking at and tells you what a fair price is, what the red flags are, and what to say when you make your offer. It takes about 2 minutes. Use code RIO10 to save $10.